The ancient city of Ephesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in Western Türkiye near the Aegean Sea. A Mediterranean crossroads for commerce, it was also revered as the site for the Temple of Artemis. Locals worshipped Artemis as the goddess of hunting and wild animals and the protector of women and girls, supporting their fertility and healthy childbirth. The Ephesians knew her as the Queen of Heaven, mother, savior, and healer. Under the rule of the Lydian Kings, Ephesus became a thriving city where men and women enjoyed equal opportunities.

Four times larger than the Parthenon, her temple became known as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. People seeking the protection of Artemis brought offerings to her temple. From 600 BCE to 400 CE, these financial offerings evolved into one of the earliest banks in the world. A strong ethical code protected these deposits as a holy sanctuary in the sacred service of the goddess. Sadly, invading Goths destroyed Artemis' Temple in 262 CE.

Scholars believe that Mary, John the Evangelist, and Mary Magdalene, known as the "Apostle to the Apostles," fled to Ephesus to escape persecution in Jerusalem. Afterward, it became a Christian pilgrimage site honoring the final resting place of Mary, Jesus' Mother, before she died. Four Popes visited Mary's home in Ephesus: Paul VI, John Paul II, Benedict XVI, and Francis.

Christianity built churches upon these sacred sites, creating a fusion between Artemis and Mary. In 431, the Council of Ephesus elevated the Virgin Mary and renamed her the "Mother of God." Like Artemis, she's also called the "Queen of Heaven."

In 2023, I had the pleasure of visiting Ephesus. As a lover of books and learning, I particularly admired the well-preserved Library of Celsus. The four remaining columns, inset with female statues, personify the following virtues: Sophia (wisdom), Episteme (knowledge), Ennoia (Intelligence), and Arete (Excellence). Built around 114 CE by the Roman Governor, Celsus, the library housed over 12,000 scrolls. During the Roman period, it served as a center for learning, as well as for Christian education and evangelization.

Roman engineering created impressive acoustics in the nearby amphitheater, which could seat 25,000 people. I could hear people talking from the main stage to the back rows. It was easy to imagine St. Paul in the center of the arena confronting the followers of Artemis. Demetrius and other jewelers became distressed when Paul's preaching diminished their business profits. They made their money by selling silver statues of Artemis, the Mother Goddess. As a result, they organized a riot against St. Paul. A city clerk calmed the crowd by reminding the Ephesians to settle any grievances against Paul in a legal assembly. (Acts 19: 24-41) Later, the church in Ephesus played a vital role in the spread of Christianity.

While staying at the Ave Maria Hotel in Selcuk, just outside Ephesus, I asked the hotel clerk about public transportation to visit Mary's House. Because only expensive taxis were available, he generously offered to take me for a minimal fee. His friend, a Muslim housekeeper, and I joined him on a pilgrimage to visit Meryem Ana (Mary's House). I was surprised to learn that Muslims also hold Mary in high regard. The Qu'ran includes several verses describing Mary's virtues and qualities as "She Who Was Chosen" and the "Greatest of Women."

Mary's bedroom has since become a guarded chapel. Standing before the altar and Mary's statue, I surprisingly began to cry. In solidarity, I sensed Mary's anguish as a mother who had witnessed much of her son's pain. The Scriptural passage of Simeon warning Mary when she presented Jesus for his circumcision in the temple flashed through my mind. "And a sword shall pierce your heart." (Luke 2: 34-36) I, too, had suffered a pierced heart as a newborn when my mother's severe post-partum depression significantly impacted her ability to nurture me.

As my mom's mental illness progressed, I often felt like a motherless child. However, Jesus' quote from the Prophet Isaiah 49:15-16 comforted me: Can a mother forget the baby at her breast and have no compassion for the child she has born? Though she may forget, I will never forget you! See, I have engraved you on the palms of my hands. I experienced Mother Mary's presence enveloping me with a wave of healing energy, mending the pain I'd been carrying since childhood. I re-entered her chapel for a second opportunity to strengthen her nurturing support, and to begin releasing the grief stored within my body.

Similar to Lourdes and other Marian pilgrimage sites, there is a spigot for blessing with holy water and a designated area to light a candle while making an intention.  There was also a wall for hanging written prayer requests. I bought candles for the three of us--the Christian hotel clerk, a Muslim housekeeper, and myself—as a visual reminder of our desires. We also wrote our needs on paper and hung them on a wire attached to a wall. Our slips of paper joined with hundreds of others appealing to Mother Mary for her support.

I feel grateful for her gift of mothering, who nourishes all people, cultures, and faith traditions.

REFLECTION QUESTIONS:

1. What inspires you to personify the virtues inscribed on the pillars in the Library of Celsus?
   
   
2. Who has been a “mothering” figure in your life? 
   
   
3. When a “sword has pierced your heart,” who or what has supported your healing?